Day 28 (June 7) Viilafranca del Bierzo to Herrerias (13 Miles)
I did not make it over the mountain today. The town at the top, O’Cebreiro, is a very remote spot with limited accommodations. I started calling all 4 of them yesterday and didn’t get any answer. (They’re not on the internet). I tried again this morning. Finally someone answered and said they were full for tonight and added, “we’re all full”. So I backed up from there until I found a spot to stay for the night in Herrerias. Perhaps it was divine intervention, as it was raining, and another 5 miles on bad feet would have been torture.
My walk followed the Rio Valcarce through the mountains. I believe I crossed it a dozen times. The water was clear and musical. I am sure that John would have spotted trout everywhere, as he did in the Pyrenees.
I ran into Miguel and Roberto, who we met on Day 1 in Orisson, at a coffee stop. I was interested to see that we’re still on the same schedule. They offered to make some calls to help me find a room, but I said that my basic Spanish was working okay. People are so nice here and always offering help. The minute you sit down to check something on your foot, several people come over and offer cream and bandaids. I do the same.
I walked in the rain for a while with a Korean man named Lee. He popped into a store and came out with a bag of ham flavored potato chips. We ate them together while walking in the rain. When the bag was finished, I thanked Lee and he took off at a young man’s pace.
I love walking through the old villages and am fascinated by the layering of building materials over the centuries. Old slate/new slate, stone/block/brick, side by side or on top of each other. It doesn’t matter if it matches, as long as it gets the job done.
There is beauty in even the most ramshackle elements. 
And when things are well kept, they are done with style. 
I don’t know if you can see the fountain at the lower right, but the sign at the left certainly doesn’t inspire confidence. I carry a full day’s water supply with me, though it adds about 3 pounds to my pack. 
Tomorrow morning I go over the top of the mountain. I am dreading the downhill, as my advance team reports it rocky and slick. I am especially nervous, since I lost my walking sticks today. I was miles away before I realized they were gone. I refuse to backtrack, so hope to find a substitute soon.
Trish-you’ve got your clean water and your wits about you. Take it slow and steady and you’ll make it just fine to your next destination! xx KC
Trish I’m sorry things did not go smoothly today -especially the loss of your walking poles and being faced with tricky terrain, I hope you can replace them very soon for your safety. Slick roads and pathways are not what you need just now! Each day as I’ve enjoyed reading your observations and accompanying photographs my admiration for your courage and determination increases. Please take great care tomorrow.
Trish. You don’t know me from a hole in the wall, but I am inspired by your perseverance and spirit. Today I made a second contribution to Sam’s Memorial Fund. I hope others do the same. This time I made it in your honor. dt
Trish, you are an inspiration in so many ways…the loss of your walking sticks and your determination to keep moving forward…but I was particularly impressed that you were able to calmly adjust your plans when there was no place to stay on your original path for the day. I for would have been a tad worried about getting a new place for the evening…all I can say is…you go girl…you are so strong. Thanks so much for sharing.
Strong Lady !!,,, Yes you are and amazing to all who read your blog … Youare not alone and your very dear Sam walking with you … Go Trish !
Trish,
Take it slow, one step at a time when needed. Steady footing and you have it! Walking sticks or not, determination is all you need.
We’re here for you!
Donna and Dan
Hi Trish,
I was driving after reading about one of your hard days on the trek and then heard the Paul Simon song on the radio with the Line “She’s got diamonds on the soles of her shoes, Well that’s one way to lose these Walking blues”.
Thinking about you and all those diamonds on the soles of your feet!
Be safe- saying prayers for you!
XO
Tina
WOW! No room at the Inn…..reminds me of another story, a sign? I know you won’t get this before you begin your journey today. Be careful, take your time. We are all rooting for you. Think of all you love helping to carry you along as you are inspiring us all! John might have wanted to stop to fish!
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