Day 27 (June 5) Rabanal del Camino to Molinaseca (16 Miles)
Sixteen miles felt like a hundred. The walk started with a smooth uphill, followed by hours of downhill over very rocky terrain. I expected the walk to take 5-6 hours. It took 8. Rocky and muddy, every step was a calculated risk. I am beat.
The anticipated highlight of the day was the Cruz de Ferro, an iron cross mounted near the highest point on the Camino. Though I arrived pretty early, there was still a crowd and I couldn’t find a moment to be alone. The intent of the visit is to take a rock that you have brought from home and leave it there, symbolizing leaving your burden behind. I had my rock and did deposit it, but given the crowd and the poor weather, did not feel very spiritual.
My friendly photographer let me down as well. Yes, that’s me at the top!
In short, a much anticipated moment flopped.
Moving right along…I walked through mist shrouded heather and mountain towns that were crumbling, though showing signs of restoration. 
Finally, a bit of sun and a view. 
More free goodies were on offer trailside. This time, there was no sign of the provider. I munched a few cherries, put some coins in the donation box and inched my way further down the slippery, rocky trail. 
I arrived at my destination, Molinaseca, relieved not to have done a face-plant or twisted an ankle.
I am now in my bed & breakfast room with no window. Trust me, that is just fine, after last night. I was at a lovely little hotel with a beautiful view and paper thin walls, barking dogs and church bells that rang all night. Perhaps the lack of sleep has colored my mood. I did not get the hoped for honey dream from the poem. Anyhow, a nice quiet cell is perfect tonight. I had peanuts and dried apricots for dinner. That’s fine too. It’s cold, but no problem, I’m sleeping in my clothes.
I’ll end this on a lighter note with a story from a few days ago:
I sat down on a bench in a huge square in the middle of Astorga. It was Sunday afternoon, so all of the Spanish families were sitting in the sunshine, enjoying an afternoon meal. Everyone (except me) was beautifully dressed. The parents were drinking wine. The children were running and playing. I relaxed, took my boots off, and peeled and ate a cucumber. It was delicious, especially since green veggies have been scarce on this trip. As I was peeling, slicing and happily chewing, some little girls in Sunday dresses roller-skated in circles around me, looking quizzical. I’m sure they wondered what this poor, badly dressed, older woman with no shoes on was doing eating from a pocket knife in the middle of their town square. Many things that come naturally on the Camino, are just not normal in real life. Even 6 year olds know that. I may need retraining on table manners, not to mention personal grooming, when I return.
Keep it up Trish. When they say “it’s all down hill from here” they do not mention that it might be difficult and tiring going down hill, but you have this covered I’m sure. Travel on!
Dear Trish,
What rugged territory and dreary weather, but Alas, you left your stone! Keep on/Keep on.
Wishing for some warm sunshine, grassy terrain & soft wind at your back ahead to carry you!
Love,
Tna
The trail looked so treacherous – every step difficult. Well, no reason to look up through all that fog. You just kept on ‘truckin’ ‘ to find a sunny day ! I love the idea of the stone and think it will become more important in retrospect. Wow, you have been so far and
so many have followed you every day. Keep writing – we love it !
Wow 361.2 miles treked, bet that doesn’t include the miles you’ve walked sightseeing. I am hoping that this tough day will be followed by a glorious one! Sending you that prayer. xo Becca
Yikes, Trish! That looked more like a precipice than a trail! But you did it! The misty landscapes are beautiful, but I’m sure the cold and dampness was not fun. Sleep well tonite in that cell. Hope the sun comes out tomorrow and the trail is more like a trail. Travel safe, dear pilgrim.
xoxo
Pat
HI TRISH,
YOUR WIT AND DETERMINATION HAS BECOME A DAILY TREAT (AND A MUST) FOR CINDY AND ME. AMAZINGLY, YOUR MOOD SEEMS TO BE REFLECTED IN CINDY. YOUR
LAST 2 DAYS HAVE NOT BEEN YOUR BEST AND CINDY HAS BEEN IN A FUNK, ALSO. I
TRULY HOPE YOUR WEATHER, TERRAIN, MEALS, REST AND SPIRITUALITY IMPROVE.
I’LL BE AMAZED IF CINDY’S DOES TOO.
GODSPEED,
WILLY
Carry On ! Carry On ! XX Patty ….
You didn’t pack some ranch to go with the cucumber? I bet that was why the little girl was looking at you funny- veggies without salad dressing! How odd!
stay safe, and hope tomorrow is better!
I’m sorry to read you encountered such poor weather from Rabanal yesterday. It was important you placed your stone from home at the cross. On starlit nights – think of it resting there.
Trish every night I sit down and read your blog with tears in my eyes. What a humbling and amazing experience! You are truly amazing and we are cheering for you! Not far now.
Donna and Dan
Hang in there Trish. The end is in sight. I am praying for you.
Hi, very nice website, cheers!
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