Day 14- San Juan de Ortega to Burgos (May 23) : 16.5 Miles (mas o menos)

The book says 16.5 miles, but I think I did an extra two or three, due to taking the “indirect” route. (I won’t say I was lost.) Apparently, in big cities, hostel owners will repaint the yellow arrows to direct walkers to their businesses, rather than the central city. I think I got fleeced by a few of those before instinct kicked in and I pulled up Google Maps on my phone. Sometimes you gotta go high tech.

I have arrived in Burgos and am here in a tiny, ancient hotel room. Right out my open window is the magnificent Burgos Cathedral and I can hear the fountain that has been flowing for centuries. I am on the 4th floor, eye level with a few of the saints carved on the building. As soon as my feet stop throbbing, I’ll venture a visit.

While I have time, with my feet up, I’ll tell you about the day so far. It was not a day for many photographs, as much of it was spent walking in the rain. It began with a walk to Agés for breakfast. At a small cafe, I went in to order my coffee. On the counter were some empanadas. In my rudimentary Spanish, asked the owner about them and she told me she had made them. She said it took 4 hours and she demonstrated the motions of rolling and pinching the pastry. I tried to find out what was in them, but only succeeded in learning what was not — no meat, no cheese. Okay, I bought one. She carefully wrapped it for me to take for my lunch.

Also in Ages: If you can’t live in it, you might as well use it as an electric pole.

From there, my walk took me up some rocky sheep trails, where I had to watch my feet at all times.

At the crest, I got a beautiful, but overcast view.

Then the rain started. When I reached a town, I ducked into another cafe, just to take a break from the downpour. I sat there, soaking wet, eating fresh strawberries and listening to 5 languages being spoken all around me, none English. Surreal.

The approach to Burgos seemed endless, taking me by the airport, several belching factories and through an industrial area. It went on for hours, with no place to sit down for a rest. Finally, I could take it no more. I sat down on a curb and opened my empanada. Flaky crust, filled with curried vegetables. Talk about comfort food!

Part 2

I feel better tonight than I have in a week. Maybe it’s the big dose of Advil I took. Maybe it’s the Pilgrim’s blessing I got after Mass in the cathedral tonight.

I expect to sleep well. Tomorrow’s a toss up. Continue on or take a “rest day” here, as many pilgrims do.

13 thoughts on “Day 14- San Juan de Ortega to Burgos (May 23) : 16.5 Miles (mas o menos)

  1. Looks like a beautiful town. Maybe take a day to rest and enjoy the Gothic architecture and of course, mas empanadas! Love, Henry

  2. Laura Johnson May 23, 2018 at 9:39 pm

    I vote a day of rest! You have been walking more miles per day than you originally planned to do. You must be ahead of schedule. Your feet and body will appreciate the rest! Much love!😘👣

  3. Trish,
    A day of rest sounds great! Your feet will thank you!
    You’re inspiring!

  4. Carol and Greg May 23, 2018 at 10:22 pm

    Ditto all of the above😎

  5. Patty McGuigan May 23, 2018 at 11:00 pm

    Day of rest ! My vote! The cathedral is beautiful ! Take good care of Trish!

    XX Patty

  6. Me too…a day of rest…your feet will thank you for the next 300 miles!

  7. Mark Hoffberger May 24, 2018 at 12:13 am

    I was wondering if superwoman would take a rest!?!! I am so impressed by your stamina and physical ability!!! Even in altitude, we take a rest at least for a day to recover and gear up for greater heights!!! Epsom salt foot bath would be in order! I am so in awe of your physical and spiritual journey; the highlight of my day is opening my emails to find another beautifully-written description of your pilgrimage. Thank you for allowing us to tag along.

  8. Deborah Breide May 24, 2018 at 12:29 am

    I too vote for a day of rest! I dreamed of you the other night … a dream crisp and vivid. You looked very determined. You will make your goal … enjoy the journey. Thinking of you along the way.
    Much love, Deb
    “Millions of spiritual creatures walk the earth unseen, both when we wake and when we sleep.” — John Milton
    Paradise Lost, IV

  9. Sally Spilman May 24, 2018 at 1:44 am

    Trish, I agree with all of the previous comments…a day of rest for you.

  10. Doreen Hansen May 24, 2018 at 6:24 am

    I am so much enjoying reading your observations as you travel the route to Santiago and the lovely photographs are appreciated for the memories they revive. I hope you decide to take a day to rest for rest and recovery are important. I’m sure you will find good coffee and churros in Burgos.
    With best wishes – Doreen

  11. Okay. The votes are in. I’m taking a day off. Spectacular day for touring.

  12. Yeah ! Glad you are resting. Love your blog. The empanada must have been great.

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