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Day 3 : Roncevalles to Zubiri (14 miles)

Pilgrim’s Mass Last night, after I signed off, we attended the Pilgrim’s Mass at Roncesvalles. The sanctuary was packed. Three priests presided over a candlelit service in Spanish in soft, lilting voices. Though we were able to translate only every tenth word…Christ, pilgrims, espirito…we understood everything. At the close, they gave us a pilgrims’ blessing sending us safely along the …